Last year the dart landed in Italy as a vacation destination in our map. True to our motto we decided to become Italians for the 11 days we were to be there. We chose hotels in the center of each city we visited, and asked the hotel staff, (not the concierge) but the housekeepers / or front desk agents where they eat on a daily basis. By asking this, we experience an Italia not like a tourist, but as a local.
ROMA: When in Roma, do as the Roman
Our first leg of this vacation starts at the center of the Roman Empire: Roma. As we were still a bit jet lagged from our flight, we decided to take a 2hrs power nap to recharge our batteries. Once we did so, we started our adventure by visiting the Vatican City and St. Peter's Cathedral. a tour of the inside of the cathedral, as well as the Sistine Chapel was everything I expected and much more. The deep history inside can transport you to a grand era from long ago. When entering the Sistine chapel you are informed that no pictures are allowed or cameras will be revoked. Well, thanks to my magnificent skills and camera, I was able to shoot the left side of the wall :o) Ok ok, I know their reason to not permit photograps, but did you really think I was not going to try? While in the square, asked one of the guards where they ate lunch, he recomended a local pizzeteria, which is visited by all the employees during their siesta time. I cannot for the love of my memory remember the name of this place, but I can tell you that it is off the left side walking out of St. Peter's Square on Via Della Conciliazione. It will be the 2nd street to the left, and its the 1st pizzeteria on the left side of the street. Here, $10.00 US got us 4 types of pizzas, and 2 cokes, but most of all, it got us to taste one of the most amazing pizzas ever!
The next 2 days, after a good hotel breakfast, we headed out to explore Roma. We saw all the touristic attraction such as the Coliseum, the Voca de la Verita (mouth of truth), Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, The Forum, and Piazza Navona. BUT we also discovered the Jewish ghetto, the Appio Latino, where I found many of my fellow Dominicans reside, and other parts of towns which names I cannot recall, but that provided us with amazing food, wine, and fun memories. If you are in Roma, please make sure you go to Al Peperoncino
www.alpeperoncino.it and have one of their many homemade pizzas. It is off the beaten path, in the Garbatella neighborhood, the waiters do not speak much English and would not prioritize a "I'm a tourist attitude" but would treat you like the locals just like the crowd is all families from the neighborhood; but believe when I tell you it is all worth it!
FLORENCE: City of my Dreams
"I found my happily ever after home base" those were my first thoughts and words when I arrived. Florence has everything a girl like me loves; history, great architecture, culture, delicious food and wine and lets not forget about the prestigious "Via De Tornabuoni" which houses most of the high fashion label and jewelery houses. No wonder it is known as "La Culla Del Rinascimento" or the cradle of the renaissance. Here we spent 4 days (wish it was longer) discovering and learning about all its monuments such as Ponte Vecchio, the only bridge that survived WWII intact, and which feature a multitude of shops built around its edges.The main church Santa Maria Del Fiore, which is the best known site in Florence because of its duomo (largest dome built out brick in the world) which provide magnificent views of the city and beyond - just prepare to make a long long line of at least 2 hours to get all the way to the top! Also our visit to Basilica of Santa Croce was an amazing learning experience; here, we were able to see the final resting place of some of the most illustrious Italians in history, such as Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli.
Florence is also known for its many (many) piazzes and streets. Below are a few that are a must when visiting this city
- Piazza della Repubblica, whre you can elbow with local (and expats) artists while having a espresso.
- Piazza della Liberta which has the triumphal arch of Florence
- Piazza Santa Trinita where not only you can find several palaces from the renaissance era, but also flagship stores such as the hubby favorite shoe designer/maker Salvatore Ferragamo.
- Oh dont forget to stroll by the Via de' Tornabuoni where you can "research" about Gucci, Emilio Pucci, and Cavalli to mention a few!
Aside from its monuments, piazzes, and basilicas, Florence has a great culinary presence; ranging from its famous Mercato Firenze to local restaurants I can say I happily ate my little heart out. There are many places that claim to be real Tuscan style, however if you find them surrounding the piazzas then know you are been fooled! Real Tuscan style restaurants, are off the beaten path, and do now have a charming Italian waiter outside wrangling business inside. They do not care if a tourist comes in, but would serve them the same way they do their everyday clientele if you happen to stumble upon them. Here are two that are a must visit in my book:
- Il Gatto & La Volpe (Via Ghibellina, 151/r) They don't have a website that I know of; and hardly do any (if at all) advertising. This place was recommended by our lovely front desk agent; when asked where she goes to unwind after a long shift at the hotel. It took us a while to find it, as is located where the locals live; but it was worth getting lost. Food was excellent, their house wine even more so, and the atmosphere was pure delight.
- Trattoria Antico Fattore (Via Lambertesca 1/3r) www.anticofattore.it.com while walking around the off the beaten path, we stumble upon this place. Its a small family owned restaurant where all you hear is the music played inside. Because we had already eaten lunch, we decided to come back for dinner. After getting lost a few times by turning the wrong alley, we found it once again. Now; this is not what I consider FDA approved and if you are squeamish about your meat not been refrigerated, then this is not for you. The first thing you notice when walking in is the big, and I mean big slab of freshly cut meat, and today's picked vegetables. When ordering steak, which they bring this slab to you, and you order based on mm. then pick your sides. We ordered the Bisteca alla fiorentina, and their stuffed zucchini flowers and their spinach with a bottle of house red. I have to say this is a meal which I still dream of today; and know I will have at the same location once I go back to Florence in the near future. Before I forget; make sure you practice your Italian, because the waiters as well as the owner's English is close to non existent!
Florence is also the most convenient post to venturing out into the Tuscan Region. I suggest you rent a car and visit the many vineyards, villas, and drive down rolling hills to quaint little towns such as
- Siena (where we spent 1 night) -The Siena Cathedral is a must visit. With its Gothic architectural design, and its Piccolomini Library which has the largest collection of manuscripts from Pope Pius II. Also pay close attention to the floor you walk in. There are 56 etched and inlaid marble panels which were designed by 40 of leading artists between 1369 and 1547, all from Siena except for 1 of them, who was Umbrian. Only a few panels are open all year round, but if you are lucky as we were, you will be there when they uncover the most precious ones which are under the apse and in the transepts; protected by special flooring since this is where people sit for mass; these are only uncovered in honor of the Palio and a pair of months during the year, often in September and October.
- Pisa - Yes visit the leaning tower, but most importantly, make sure you visit a few of its 20 historical churches, and the university of Pisa, which history dates back to the 12th century.
- Voterra -better known as the Italian town from the Twitligth Saga
- San Gimignano - known for its many towers and rich history dating to the 10th century, SG is a sight not to be missed. Make sure you refresh yourself with a gelato from Pluripremiatta Gelateria. Its gelato is world known, and the flavors combinations such as Blackberry & Lavander / spicy chocolate and sour cherries are out of this world.
VENICE: A place for foodies
For me, Venice was not what I expected. Venice can be visited in two days or less. Once you have eaten your way around, and see all the mayor sites, there is not much to do unless of course, you are the for the world famous Venice Film Festival, Venetian Carnival which happens 2 weeks prior to ash Wednesday every year,or to take a week long class in the art of glass blowing (which I would love to). Yes, their quaint little alleys, (which always end on one end or another of the many canals that surround the city) San Marco, and the various museums, are great to see, however as beautiful, and romantic as the city is, it feels like a tourist trap with its many disembarking cruises, and haggling illegal street "designer goodies" vendors makes it feel like a visit to NYC
I do have to admit, Venice has some of the best seafood I have ever eaten in this lifetime; and for that alone I would go to Venice in a heart beat. If you find yourself in Venice, make sure you visit
- Osteria 40 Ladroni (by the Fondameta Della Sensa) and you will have the best squid ink seafood pasta in your life. It was so good, we end up eating dinner here for our 3 night stay in Venice.
- Al Paradiso (Off the Rialto) menu is small (20 tbls top), local and mostly based on the catch of the day. Our lunch here was so good, we even bought extra food (octopus salad) to take during our 1/2 day tour of the outer islands.
There are many places yet to visit in Italia. We are planing a tour mainly to the south of Italy, and stopping in Cicily in the next two years. And I cannot wait to continue our food trail trough such wonderful land!
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